Praça XV de Novembro - The historical center of Rio

Downtown Rio is a maddening mixture of old and new. It is incredibly rich in historical sites, buildings, churches and monuments, it used to be the political and administrative capital of Brazil and still preserves many institutions and buildings, it is also the business center of Rio de Janeiro with enormous modern skyscrapers, and during the week the traffic is crazy and the crowds in the streets seem neverending. Still I love it! There is always so much going on culture wise, and always new or old details to discover.

Praça XV, the former Largo do Carmo, is the very gateway, this was the harbor where it all began. It still is where the ferries from Niteroi, Ilha do Governador and Paquetá come in, but landfill and road construction has removed the square itself from the sea. This can be seen easily at the Chafariz de Mestre Valentim, it used to be right where the boats anchored and had steps so that people could get up and down, nowadays the steps lead strangely nowhere.

Considered a masterpiece, the fountain was constructed between 1779 and 1789 by Valentim da Fonseca e Silva or Mestre Valentim, the son of a Portuguese noble and an African slave, one of the great artists of colonial Brazil. The small pyramid shaped tower and the area around was restored in 1990.

Close by, on the same Praça XV, is the Paço Imperial or The Imperial Palace. It was built in 1743 to be the Palace of the Governor, later it became the residence of the Viceroy, but when King João VI arrived fleeing from Portugal in 1808 it became the Royal Pallace. In 1822 Brazil became an independent nation as The Empire of Brazil and the palace was renamed once more to The Imperial Palace.It was restored in 1980 and is now a cultural center with a bookstore, a restaurant and art exhibitions.

And after seeing the wonderful exhibition of the Brazilian artist Beatriz Milhazes - Meu Bem - that was where my walk ended yesterday.

Back in Rio

After several months I am finally back in Rio.
So much has happened while I was gone, so much is still going on.

If people are still talking about the Arab Spring the Brazilian Awakening deserves just as much attention. My impression is that the Brazilians finally woke up after a long, long time hibernating. They came out on the streets, a bit like bear cubs come out in the sunshine for the very first time - a bit lost, a bit scared, but soon overcome by the feeling of freedom and space. On the international news other happenings have taken over the scene, but in Brazil the demonstrations continue.

In Rio the teachers of the public schools have been on strike for over two months now, and they are out on the streets almost daily. They are joined by people from different classes and groups, and they are in the news constantly. The teachers going on strike is nothing new in Brazil, what is new is the support they are getting and the exposure they have in the media..

This blog dedicated to "all things beautiful in Rio" welcomes the movement and supports it, of course! What makes Rio so special are the people, to see thousands fill the streets peacefully and gracefully, but forcefully making their voices heard asking for health and education and an end to corruption and violence, can only be called beautiful. The Government's response has so far been disappointing, they still seem at a total loss on how to deal with the situation, and unfortunately the police are now increasing arrests and repression.

My hope is that all the energy created by the Awakening will not be lost. I dream of a better Brazil, a Brazil awake and present, a beautiful Brazil - for all.